This is an intermediate level formula facial moisturizer. It features nourishing luxury oils such as argan, avocado, macadamia and squalane, which will soften dry skin on the face.
The moisturizer will keep the skin nice and supple with the help of glycerin, rose hydrosol and allantoin. Moisturizers can be formulated for different skin types and with different skin feels (lightweight, medium weight and heavy weight for example).
Directions For Use
Apply after cleansing or after the use of a toner or facial mist.
Potential Substitute Ingredients
You could use a different hydrosol (or replace it with extra purified water). If you don’t have guar gum, xanthan gum can be used instead. You could substitute the carrier oils for other oils of your choice, and use different essential oils. If you want to use a different emulsifier then you’d need to experiment to find the right amount to use.
Storage
Store in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight. Storing creams and lotions in airless pump dispensers minimizes the risk of contamination. Apply with clean hands.
Approximate shelf-life: six months.
Creams can have a much longer shelf-life but you will need to have microbiological and stability testing carried out to determine the shelf-life. Read more about product testing here: A guide to cosmetic product testing and safety assessments.
Formula
Phase | Ingredient | INCI | Function | w/w% |
A | Purified water (eg deionized or distilled) | Aqua | Solvent | 37.5 |
A | Rose hydrosol | Rosa Damascena (Rose) Flower Water | Solvent, fragrance | 30.0 |
A | Glycerin | Glycerin | Humectant | 2.0 |
A | Allantoin | Allantoin | Skin conditioning, soothing | 0.2 |
B | Olivem 1000 | Cetearyl Olivate (and) Sorbitan Olivate | Emulsifier | 6.0 |
B | Cetyl alcohol | Cetyl Alcohol | Thickener, stabilizer | 2.0 |
B | Olive squalane | Squalane | Emollient | 5.0 |
B | Argan oil | Argania Spinosa (Argan) Nut Oil | Emollient | 5.0 |
B | Avocado oil | Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil | Emollient | 5.0 |
B | Macadamia nut oil | Macadamia Integrifolia (Macadamia) Seed Oil | Emollient | 5.0 |
B | Guar gum | Cyamopsis Tetragonoloba (Guar) Gum | Thickener, stabilizer | 0.5 |
C | Ylang ylang essential oil | Cananga Odorata Flower Oil | Fragrance, active ingredient | 0.3 |
C | Sweet orange essential oil | Citrus Sinensis Fruit Oil | Fragrance, active ingredient | 0.5 |
C | Cosgard | Dehydroacetic Acid, Benzyl Alcohol | Preservative | 1.0 |
Recipe
Ingredients | Weight in grams (for a 100g batch) | Weight in ounces (oz) for a 4 oz batch |
Purified water (eg deionized or distilled) | 37.5 | 1.5 |
Rose hydrosol | 30 | 1.2 |
Glycerin | 2 | 0.08 |
Allantoin | 0.2 | 0.008 |
Olivem 1000 | 6 | 0.24 |
Cetyl alcohol | 2 | 0.08 |
Olive squalane | 5 | 0.2 |
Argan oil | 5 | 0.2 |
Avocado oil | 5 | 0.2 |
Macadamia nut oil | 5 | 0.2 |
Guar gum | 0.5 | 0.02 |
Ylang ylang essential oil | 0.3 | 0.012 (approx 9 drops) |
Sweet orange essential oil | 0.5 | 0.02 (approx 15 drops) |
Cosgard | 1 | 0.04 |
Instructions
- Weigh all the ingredients of phase A in a container.
- Weigh phase B ingredients in a separate container.
- Heat both phases in a water bath to 70°C (158°F) and keep this temperature for 20 minutes. To account for water evaporation during heating, weigh the container with phase A ingredients before heating and take a note of the weight. After the time has passed, weigh the container again to see how much water evaporated. Add the appropriate amount of distilled/deionized water to compensate for any water lost during heating.
- Mix the phases together and emulsify using a stick blender.
- Cool the emulsion in a cold water bath, stir during cooling down.
- When the temperature reaches 40°C (104°F) add phase C ingredients, mix thoroughly.
- Package into your container of choice.
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